Barismo Articles

Coffee Gear

Espresso Technique

Reviews of Coffees

Tea and more Tea

Video


Archives

Saturday, October 28, 2006

Cupping high grade taiwanese teas.



Checking the leaves after the cupping which were very intact, undamaged and pretty. Thy expanded with each brew until being fully unfurled.

Dha yu ling and a Pear mountain tea from taiwan. Each taiwanese tea was high grown and sells for $100 per 5.5oz. These teas were both at the base very sweet and intensely floral.
Fresh crop!
Flavor cuppa notes:
Pear mountain - pear, cinnamon, mint, honey, super creamy, and lemon drop aftertaste.
Dha yu ling - molasses, cinnamon graham cracker, clean cucumber, grape soda aftertaste.
Summary: We don't drink teas like this in the states! Silas needs more of these!
The sweet aftertastes linger in a super sweet clean flavor for many minutes afterwards.
-jaime




UPDATE: I realized that after this cupping we had to rethink everything one more time. If the tea industry is this advanced in Taiwan, then it means this is where the coffee industry should be or will be going. It's scary to think but maybe that's what it's about. The tea's were expressive, amazing, and complex. They were worth getting excited about. They were more complex than any tea I have had. Granted I have visited china and Japan but these blew down any of those expereiences by a long shot. It was strange how you could taste layers of flavors in the cups. Tea has this potential? That's something to think about.

Big cheers to Ben's dad in Taiwan for arranging them!

Labels: , , , , ,

AddThis Social Bookmark Button

10 Comments:

Rich said...

Jaime,
We have some tea talent in our shop, but I admit to personally knowing next to squat about tea, other than Intelly's 333 blend is our best seller.

Question for you since you seem to enjoy this stuff and understand the terroir issues as they relate to chemistry - can these types of teas be grown in the US? Would seem to me that there are similar macroclimates here in the US, but maybe not the required microclimates.

Whaddya think?

29/10/06 1:07 PM  
Silas said...

Yes. There are experimental plantings in oregon and there was a tea farm in south carolina about 200 years ago. They are still around, but they use only machines that make ctc tea.

29/10/06 3:51 PM  
Jaime van Schyndel said...

Conceivably they could be grown here but maybe not well. Teas of this grade are somewhat of a rarity though. Silas could add more being the tea guy! Some of these teas are grown at 4500 meters above sea level with about 18 varietals out there, maybe Silas can elaborate the possibility. I know many herbals are grown in the us but I am not sure if the climate or elevation lends to teas anywhere in the US. Good question.
One of the more interesting points we learned was that Taiwan has such amazing processing methods and that plays a huge part in it. They have developed so much tech into processing that they neither damage nor cover the potential of each tea. They are essentialy light roasters too! The processing is so good and consistent they often buy teas from outside sources, import them, process them, then turn around and export them for a premium. You have to understand though some of these uber lots are broken down into each tree producing one lot. Sounds Terroir-ish.
The lack of roastiness on the teas and the complexity of the oolongs is very interesting. We begin to realie that all theoolongs we taste here in the US, even the $300/lb are somewhat rubbish in comparison to these competition grade teas. Scary thought. While we have a good source for SO herbals here, we never realized just how complex and developed the tea industry in taiwan was. As an outsider, we assumed it to be lemming philosophy but that's rubbish talk.

333 eh? Nice box though, I still have one in my cabinet I think!

29/10/06 4:06 PM  
hong said...

where is my part? I didn't get to drink it. I should be a expert of drinking tea... hehehehe

29/10/06 8:57 PM  
Ben C. said...

Hong,

You will really love this tea (especially the pear mountain). Wait till next week when Silas bring over the tea set. I will try my best to consume this ASAP... it will be a shame to let it go wasted (I don't think it will last very long after opening... 2 to 3 months top?)

29/10/06 10:17 PM  
Silas said...

Another thing you have to realize, is that it would just not be economical at this point to grow tea here. All the research and processing techniques would take time and money to develop and perfect. No one wants to spend all the money and time to sit there and make tea, just to turn around and sell the low grade tea for hundreds of dollars a pound. It is certainly possible to find the micro climates, but all the money involved with creating even a poor quality tea would cost a whole lot.

30/10/06 1:08 PM  
Rich said...

Silas,

I see your point on the processing, but, let's just say somebody found an similar microclimate in the Appalachians and had some success trying to grow some of the same teas you mention.

Would the processing have to be as sophisticated as you suggest, or could it be done as a lower tech microbrewery, where some imperfection may appear in the final product.

I'm thinking that perhaps the tradeoff is a tea that might not be as wonderful as you've experienced in Taiwan, but perhaps significantly better than what's here now - and at a better price.

Is that feasible?

Heck, Daryn's growing coffee in NC and I need a new hobby...

I'm not being totally facetious here... I've actually thought of growing truffles, too.

And Jaime, they are very useful boxes. We use them for our plastic utensils and stirrers on the service bar. Good for keeping small loose parts, too. The new paper boxes aren't as sturdy though.

30/10/06 9:55 PM  
Ben C. said...

Acutally I think the tea will be quite expensive if it's grown and process here. The good teas are entirely harvest and process by hand. And with these high mountain teas, the leafs (the ones I have are mostly 2 to 3 on a stem) are rolled into tiny balls, which I am sure is not a trivial process. With the cost of living here being roughly 3 times of that in Taiwan, I am sure you can start to imagine the cost of labor invovled.
Like I was told, due to the high demand (and the low yield), estate will often buy tea leafs from neighboring farms, and thru processing, they can produce tea that are vastly better than same tea from the same farm they purchased from. This is very similar to wine making I believe.
And ultimately, there is just no market to support these quality teas. The ones I got are just "medium to high grade" that you can purchase at stores. The really premium stuff are quite expensive.. just food for thought: a recent competetion champion tea fetched $15,000 for 300g. Yes, that is in US dollars....

30/10/06 10:35 PM  
Jaime van Schyndel said...

Actually, it would be cool to have some of your own personal tea trees nevermind the ending product quality. Much like Ben's little pot of 'ethiopica' and Daryn's monster coffee tree. Info on the seeds, flowers and life cycle of a tea tree would be interesting fodder.

I think this needs a full photo post after a bit of research.

Rich, are they switching from the branded wood? Those boxes were kinda cool. I really do still have some in my cabinet and one of the really big ones with the logo and slide top!

30/10/06 11:22 PM  
Silas said...

Rich,

I think that is a wonderful thought. It would be fun to grow and process as a hobby and learning experiance but it is just not really economical for comercial use. It would be awesome to see some local tea! How cool would it be to drive an hour into the mountains and get fresh tea, just fired? But for now that is just a dream.

31/10/06 11:52 PM  

Post a Comment





Friday, October 27, 2006

Kenya Mamuto... better than Tegu?



Originally uploaded by Steve FordDogMilque.

I just have to say that this was one fabulous coffee. Funny how this was actually the first bag(the one we took to SF) I've tried that really popped. Not suprising since Silas worked on making sure George knew it would be going to Andrew Barnett as a gift. I cupped it ahead of time with Alex B, Silas, Miguel, Judson, Kaminsky, and even Asim dropped in. Coffee just didn't pop though. I was not sure why. Made a trip to exchange bags and it turns out it wasn't the coffee but a roast issue. It was something that happened at the roasterie. Luckily the bags we took to San Francisco were sweet and beautiful.
I always like to take some stuff like that when I go somewhere. I usually take some of Andrew's Epsresso or one of George's Kenyas or Yirgs. I find that is the best way to express who I am past all the talk. You like what I like, nice!


Coffees like this are a definte reason to get a clover.
It is better than Tegu and that's what is so shocking. The weird thing is since the flavors are not roast related, the aromatics and sweet fruit can fade quickly once the bag is open. I guess it's like a great bottle of wine, you want to drink it once it's open or else it's a waste to hoard it.
-Jaime


PS How does Steve Ford take photos when you don't see him take them? Camera Ninja Skills?!?

Labels:

AddThis Social Bookmark Button

2 Comments:

Jason Haeger said...

My S/O added sugar, and gave up because she couldn't taste the coffee through all the fruit. She described it as tasting like one of those over-sugared boxed juice drinks kids get in their lunches.

To me, it tastes like berry juice. It's different in that the "coffee flavor" is so subtle, and the origin flavors are so.. BAM! (for lack of a better word)

The flavors unique to this bean hit you in the face like a ton of bricks. It doesn't take a trained palate to find them, and appreciate them.

Suddenly, specialty coffee is exciting for the unwashed masses.

30/10/06 1:37 AM  
Jaime van Schyndel said...

'absence of roast.' That means the coffee for what it is. I think we always forget that coffee is essentialy a fruit and it is what we do to it that changes that character.

30/10/06 1:54 PM  

Post a Comment





Thursday, October 26, 2006

Teflon Portafilters


Originally uploaded by Chris Owenscoffeemutiny.

I love this idea of having teflon portafilters on a bar. I don't know why everyone is so cool to the idea here in the US. It seems fabulous to just be able to rinse and wipe the portafilter and not worry about rancid oil buildup.

Jaime

Labels: ,

AddThis Social Bookmark Button

4 Comments:

blanco said...

behold! the future. now this from the voice of reason (read: the frightened-of-change crowd)...

'you know, i thought about 750 satellite channels, but these three come in so clearly when i adjust the bunny ears.'

'painless dentristry? no thanks.'

'air-conditioning: an overrated luxury.'

27/10/06 1:38 AM  
Jason Haeger said...

ooo.. I want 'em on my rig.

Pure espresso flavor, from a spout, at last!

30/10/06 1:34 AM  
J Christian said...

Perhaps this is a bad idea because - oh, I don't know...because Teflon (R) (TM) (C) Dow Chemical Corporation (or whichever hegemon) is...a freaking neurotoxin?

Why not just lube up the insides of the Burr grinders with a flavorless variety of WD-40?

Just a surely as video killed the radio star, Starbucks killed the real barista.

18/12/06 11:30 PM  
Ben C. said...

So all the millions out there w/ teflon fry pans should die of early death already?

Teflon becomes unstable and outgases at about 460F. The operating temperature of the portafilter and the machine never, ever get close to that range.

A lot of things will kill you if you use it outside of its intended operation limit. A little bit of knowledge goes a long way....

19/12/06 8:00 AM  

Post a Comment





Diagnosis of a label

On our last trip to New York, I came across a few bits and pieces in one of the McDonald's gas station combo rest areas you see in CT on I95. Inside is a McDonalds and a coffee stand selling Lavazza. At the stand was this big board describing PB&J lattes and Nutty Buddy lattes as 'Specialty Coffee.' Those drinks had little to do with coffee but the irony was that right across from the stand was a huge sign for McDonalds iced coffee as a 'Premium Roast.' I thought, all we need is a Starbucks in the building! Then we could round out with some 'gourmet coffee' or some other nondescript term the marketers came up with. I chuckled a bit but it was kind of sad. With those terms, it's just varying derees of the same spin.

The coffee industry is running out of nondescript terms to describe it's coffee.
There, I've said it. When Starbucks says "This coffee is bold." I'm sorry, I looked it up and I still don't know what it means in terms of coffee! How about robust? I still struggle with full bodied. Now if my coffee is not Bold, Robust, and Full-bodied, it must be meek, weak, and light??? It's marketing spin isn't it? They must assume by controlling the label to make it sound nice without really saying anything they have succeeded in delivering the product with ambiguous terms that cannot be identified as positive or negative. It takes a lot more guts to describe the flavors in a coffee than to just say it's "full bodied and smooth." Check the coffee boards of some of these corporate shops and try to really pin down exactly what they are saying. It's all very nondescript and vague. Try the Starbucks site, that's my favorite. Just scroll through and imagine trying to tell a friend what each of the -flavor- descriptors of each of the coffees means. This one has zest! This one is bold! Say what? Then again maybe that's better than saying bitter, ashy, and burnt!

It seems that the marketing just muddies the proverbial water. Diluting and confusing the facts until the consumer gets into a routine of "Venti Breakfast blend." That's the real danger when someone is convinced that they know what that means and are so comfortable ordering it, they cannot go into another shop and order something else without confusion. The marketing gets into your routine and you have been pushed to recite the branding terms until you forget that you have been branded. Now, when you go into another shop, you must unlearn your routine and go back to normal land where there are small, med or large. OR Where a cappuccino may actually be a true italian 6oz microfoamed cappuccino and not large foamy latte.

Sadly, I really don't see it stopping anytime soon but we should not give up and roll over.
So, How do we fight this:

Transparency

Consumer Education

Perceivable Quality(and value)differences

Online Forums and other free information sources

Exceptional product in the independent Cafe



All opinons welcome-

Jaime

Labels:

AddThis Social Bookmark Button

1 Comments:

Silas said...

Or as a teacher I once told, said, "oh I thought you meant like a full figured body when you said full bodied!"

27/10/06 12:30 AM  

Post a Comment





Tuesday, October 24, 2006

Costa Rica: Reflecting on water

Last winter when I was travelling through central america, I volunteered at a coffee farm for about a week and a half. Now the water quality in most of central america (Belize, Guatemala, El Salvador, Hondorus, Nicaragua and Panama) is fairly poor, but Costa Rica because of the economic situation in most of the country, is an exception for the most part. So after having to buy filtered water or purifying my water with iodine tablets for 2 months, I was surprised to find that the coffee farm had clean, fresh tasting water. It came from springs near by and collected in a well underneath the guest house. For several days the other guests and I were drinking the water with delight, relived that iodine was not necessary. After maybe 5 days I noticed a soapy taste in the water and started to get concerned that maybe the water wasn't as good as I had thought earlier. The other volunteers didn't notice any thing strange about the taste so I kept drinking it, thinking that maybe they had a chlorinated source. After washing some dishes one night I realized there was a hole in the sink. I ran the faucet and went outside to see a good amount of water dripping into the ground right below the sink. The pipe that brought us fresh water was right there sticking in the ground and it turns out that the soapy dish water was leaking into our well beneath the house. I patched up the hole as best I could and put a pot underneath the sink to catch the excess water leaking through. After about a day or so, water started to taste alot cleaner and like it did the first couple of days I was there. I never thought developing my palate would actually be practical like that!


Now several months later after coming back from california, I am realizing how incredibly critical water quality and chemical make up is for tea. I think my brita has a learning disability, cuz the water goes through it too fast. I tried poland spring and volvic and neither work as nicely as the water in cali. Ben's filtered and softer water worked fairly well, but I still can't get that same sweet and fullness as in california. Whatever ends up working, I realized that where ever you are in the country your water is probably gonna be a little different. I know that when I was in Arizona several years ago, the water tasted aweful cuz it had been sitting in the pipes for a really long time. Maybe I just need to get a new filter...



-Silas

Labels:

AddThis Social Bookmark Button

1 Comments:

hong said...

I totally agree with you. It reminds me of my hometown. I remembered when I was kid, the "toasted sesame bun" we had was really popular. So people from other city copied the recipe and tried to make them. It was just not as good as the original. I know the technique could be part of it, but the main reason was definitly the difference of water.

26/10/06 8:58 PM  

Post a Comment





Monday, October 23, 2006

Trials and tribulations of a mouthwatering cupper.

I think we love the taste. The sensations, the flavors, the colors that it inspires in the imagination. Drink fine red wines, uber whiskeys/bourbons, rice wine, grappa, you name it... oh yeah and teas too. The flavor is what gets us so excited. Finding those unique flavors and then sharing it. That's what I love about a good barista. Finding that one extraction of the espresso where the temp, the timing, dose, all come together to reveal for that coffee the roasted peanuts with a buttery viscosity leading one to declare 'peanut butter!' A eureka moment really. What if every new coffee is a eureka moment and playing with each extraction leads to new and distinct tastes that really excite you because you know even the average untrained palate can see the difference between the light sweet floral Yirg and the peanut butter chocolate cup espresso presented before them.

Sadly this just isn't the case. When I play around with George's coffee's, I get that. When I get a special batch from Andrew to muck up, I get that. It just doesn't happen very often besides one time experiences outside of those two roasters.

So when you read our enthusiasm, we aren't really crazy... well not too much. You have to be in the same room or have an experience like we have had... a shared experience and then it all clicks. Sometime you really have to be in the same room to get it and relate.

In George's roasts it's like lifting a veil off the coffees and exposing them clearly. George is the exception with his light roast style though. It took me a while to get it but I do and I'm better for it.

The end result is I have now priced myself out of most of the things I could enjoy if I didn't focus so much on flavor. When you cup, you think more about flavor. In the end, you train yourself to become more discriminating about what you eat or imbibe and then your bank account will suffer!


-Jaime
AddThis Social Bookmark Button

3 Comments:

Ben C. said...

You tell me.... just wait till the tea arrived this week... Hopefully it will really screw us up w/ tea from now on ;-)

23/10/06 10:15 PM  
Silas said...

This post has been removed by a blog administrator.

24/10/06 1:54 AM  
Silas said...

I have been day dreaming about that since I got the news...

24/10/06 1:56 AM  

Post a Comment